Gainesville Daily Register

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September 14, 2009

Ancient Ovens offer fine Italian dining

Sometimes life can curve in a different direction then what is planned. How a person deals with those changes can lead to a new and exciting adventure.

Which is exactly what happened to Denis and Susan Moody of Saint Jo, Texas.

After serving with the Navy for thirty years, Denis retired and was left the question "what do I do now?"

His answer came in the form of ovens. Or more precisely italian ovens.

While stationed in Italy with the Navy, Denis became fascinated with the old brick, wood burning ovens the italians still used to cook their meals. "Every restaurant you went to had one of these ovens." Denis said.

His idea was to learn how to build an "ancient oven" and contract out to install them as part of the outdoor kitchens that many people are adding to their backyard patio.

Denis enrolled in the North House Folk School located in Grand Marais, Minnesota. During the intensive course, he learned the proper procedures to construct his own oven and how to use it.

But as the economy stated falling, the demand for such luxuries fell and Denis was once again left with "what now?"

While Denis and his wife Susan tried to answer that question, they used their own oven Denis built outside their house to entertain friends and family. Soon friends started asking the Moodys if they would mind hosting a family reunion or a large party. Denis and Susan agreed and Ancient Ovens took off with a life of its own.

Located approximately 5.5 miles north of Saint Jo, Ancient Ovens is nestled in the Red River valley offering panoramic views of serene country life. With wood plank tables set up outside, diners can take advantage of the scenic views while they enjoy a slow relaxed dinner of fine traditional italian dining.

As guests arrive for dinner, Denis takes time out from manning the oven to greet each one personally and seeing to their needs. Diners have the option of sitting under the pavilion around the oven or seating at the more formal area over looking the valley. Which ever place they choose, they can be sure they will be treated like family.

Those choosing to sit at the overlook are served by Erin Moody, daughter who serves as waitress. Guests under the pavilion are served buffet style

Each evenings fare is a five course meal served with only the freshest ingredients. To start the meal is sour dough bread made from an 80-year old started kit handed down to Susan by her mother. Next is a succulent spinach and artichoke dip that enhances the the taste of the bread. This is followed by Italiano Teardrops , a pastry wrapped appetizer of olive cream cheese and spices. One guest said that "this is what I came back for." while another diner said she "could make a whole meal of them."

Each course is served slowly, allowing guests time to savor the unique taste of each course.

After the teardrops, the pizzas make their appearance. The Moodys offer something for everyone, whether vegetarian, lactose intolerant, or the traditional pepperoni,guests can take their choice of pizza.

The neopolitan style pizzas are cooked on a bed of ash that lends a unique flavor that "blows all others out of the water."

Once everyone has had their fill of pizza, the dessert is served, a calzone filled with dark chocolate and hazelnut that just melts in the mouth.

The meal takes about two hours from beginning to end. But no one seems to mind as they sit around chatting and laughing.

"We have had some stay until one in the morning" Denis said."We invite people to slow down and relax, enjoy a traditional family style dinner."

Besides the local areas of Saint Jo, Nocona, Forestburg and Gainesville, they have people from Dallas, Fort Worth, Grapevine and San Angelo as well as Oklahoma come for their dinners. And all agree that it is well worth the drive for the chance to taste the best italian cooking this side of Italy.

Dinners are served Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. Any wishing a seating on other nights may contact and Denis and Susan for availability at www.ancientovens.com

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